Your Siamese Algae Eater Vet-Prep Sheet
Finfern honest freshwater care · finfern.com 🔍 Find an aquatic / fish vet — before you need one
- Search the WAVMA aquatic-vet finder (the World Aquatic Veterinary Medical Association) — or search "aquatic / fish / exotics vet near me".
- Call ahead and ask the key question: "Do you treat fish?" Few vets do — and ask the exam fee while you're on the phone.
- Find and save one now, while things are calm — not in the middle of a crisis.
📇 Fill this in now — before the crisis
Two minutes now saves ten in a panic. Print it and keep it by the tank.
🚨 Is this an emergency now?
Act promptly — starting with a water test — if you notice any of these:
- Your "SAE" is aggressive, rasps on other fishes’ flanks, or clings to the glass sucking at it — suspect a mis-sold Chinese algae eater (or flying fox), not a true Crossocheilus; re-check the ID (dark lateral stripe, body shape) and rehome if it is the wrong fish.
- A single SAE turning bullying or, conversely, hiding and skittish — often a numbers problem; in a pecking-order shoaler keep six or more so weaker individuals are not singled out.
- A visibly thin, sunken, emaciated SAE — a known problem in this group; it needs a constant, competitor-free source of algae/veg food plus spotless, oxygen-rich water. Correct diet and water quality before assuming illness.
When in doubt, a vet call is never wrong — most issues are reversible if caught early.
🚗 On the way / while you wait
✅ Do
- Test your water NOW — ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature — and correct the obvious (a big source of trouble is ammonia / nitrite).
- Keep the fish in its own stable, dechlorinated tank water.
- Move it to a hospital / quarantine tank if you already have one set up.
- Keep the tank calm and dimly lit — stress makes almost everything worse.
⛔ Don’t
- Don’t tip in OTC, aquarium-shop or forum “cures” blindly — many are harmful or just mask the real problem.
- Don’t make a big sudden water change or swing the parameters.
- Don’t add salt or medication without knowing the cause.
🎒 What to bring
- A recent water-test result — ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature. Water quality is the root of most fish illness and the first thing a fish vet asks about.
- Clear photos and a short video — it may not show the behaviour or symptom in the clinic.
- A note of your setup and exactly what — and how often — you feed.
- Only if the vet advises transporting the fish: the fish in a bag or tub of its OWN tank water.
🗣️ What to tell the vet
A general vet may not know this species. Come ready to explain its correct care:
- Temperature
- 20–26 °C / 68–79 °F
- pH
- 6.0–7.5
- Hardness
- 1–15 dGH
- Minimum tank
- ~304 L / ~80 US gal — a 150 × 45 cm base for a group, per SeriouslyFish
- Filtration & flow
- Spotless, oxygen-rich water with decent flow; a river fish, not a low-maintenance one
- Diet
- Aufwuchs grazer — Spirulina-based dried food + fresh vegetables; AVOID high-protein foods
- Tankmates / temperament
- Generally peaceful, but a pecking-order shoaler — weaker fish are bullied in small numbers
⚕️ Most fish illness starts with water quality, not infection — bring a recent water test; it's the first thing a good fish vet will ask about. Fish medicine is specialised and few vets treat fish, so call ahead. Many aquarium-shop and OTC 'cures' are harmful or simply mask the real problem, so tell the vet exactly what (if anything) you’ve already added, and treat a sick fish in a separate hospital tank rather than dosing the whole display.
Then note which of the warning signs (above) you are seeing, when they started, and whether they are getting worse.
❓ Questions to ask
- Do you treat fish? If not, can you refer me to a vet who does?
- What are the likely causes — and could my water or setup be the cause?
- What is the treatment plan, the likely cost, and what should I watch for at home?
- How do I prevent this from happening again?