🔍 Find an aquatic / fish vet — before you need one
- Search the WAVMA aquatic-vet finder (the World Aquatic Veterinary Medical Association) — or search "aquatic / fish / exotics vet near me".
- Call ahead and ask the key question: "Do you treat fish?" Few vets do — and ask the exam fee while you're on the phone.
- Find and save one now, while things are calm — not in the middle of a crisis.
📇 Fill this in now — before the crisis
Two minutes now saves ten in a panic. Print it and keep it by the tank.
🚨 Is this an emergency now?
Act promptly — starting with a water test — if you notice any of these:
- Clamped fins, hiding, faded or washed-out colour, or flashing (rubbing on decor): first response is to TEST THE WATER (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) and do a partial water change. This is almost always a water-quality or stress signal, not a diagnosis.
- Gasping at the surface or rapid gill movement: check temperature, aeration and flow, and test for ammonia and nitrite immediately; do a partial water change while you investigate.
- White salt-grain spots (possible ich), cottony growths, ragged fins, or a bloated body with raised scales: keep water pristine, remove stressors, and seek guidance from an aquatic vet or an experienced fishkeeping source rather than blindly dosing. Early water-quality correction resolves many outbreaks.
- Persistent nipping or one fish being chased: this usually means the group is too small or the tank too cramped. Increase the shoal toward 10+ and add cover before assuming the aggression is an individual problem.
When in doubt, a vet call is never wrong — most issues are reversible if caught early.
🚗 On the way / while you wait
✅ Do
- Test your water NOW — ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature — and correct the obvious (a big source of trouble is ammonia / nitrite).
- Keep the fish in its own stable, dechlorinated tank water.
- Move it to a hospital / quarantine tank if you already have one set up.
- Keep the tank calm and dimly lit — stress makes almost everything worse.
⛔ Don’t
- Don’t tip in OTC, aquarium-shop or forum “cures” blindly — many are harmful or just mask the real problem.
- Don’t make a big sudden water change or swing the parameters.
- Don’t add salt or medication without knowing the cause.
🎒 What to bring
- A recent water-test result — ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature. Water quality is the root of most fish illness and the first thing a fish vet asks about.
- Clear photos and a short video — it may not show the behaviour or symptom in the clinic.
- A note of your setup and exactly what — and how often — you feed.
- Only if the vet advises transporting the fish: the fish in a bag or tub of its OWN tank water.
🗣️ What to tell the vet
A general vet may not know this species. Come ready to explain its correct care:
- Temperature
- 22-28 C (72-82 F). Most keepers settle around 24-26 C (75-79 F). Stable beats perfect: use a reliable heater plus a thermometer rather than chasing a single degree.
- pH
- 6.0-7.5 is ideal, and they are genuinely tolerant of 6.0-8.0. Unusually for a tetra, they do fine in neutral-to-slightly-alkaline tap water.
- Hardness
- Very adaptable. GH of roughly 2-20 dGH is the comfortable range (SeriouslyFish), and they tolerate harder water up to about 25-30 dGH. Stability matters more than a specific number; aim for the lower end only if you plan to breed them.
- Minimum tank
- The keeper-facing floor is a 60 x 30 cm (24 x 12 in) footprint, about 54 litres / roughly 14-15 US gallons, which is the smallest tank SeriouslyFish lists for a proper shoal. You will see "10 gallons / 38 L" quoted a lot; that is tight for a group that swims this actively. The honest reality is that bigger, and especially LONGER, is better. A 75-90 L (20-24 gal) tank around 60 cm+ long lets you keep a confident group of 8-10 and gives them the horizontal swimming space that matters far more than raw volume. Footprint (swimming length) beats height every time for a shoaling tetra.
- Filtration & flow
- A cycled filter running gentle-to-moderate flow. They come from slow clearwater streams and flooded savannah, not torrents, so aim for a calm current with a few sheltered spots. A gentle sponge or baffled hang-on-back filter is ideal; avoid a fierce outflow that pins them to one end of the tank.
- Diet
- Omnivorous micropredator. In the wild it eats small invertebrates; in the aquarium it readily takes good-quality flake and micro-granules as a staple, plus regular small live or frozen foods (daphnia, brine shrimp/Artemia, bloodworms) for condition.
- Tankmates / temperament
- Peaceful and easygoing. Not a fin-nipper when kept in a proper group, but a stressed, undersized group can get twitchy and pick at each other or at slower tankmates.
⚕️ Most fish illness starts with water quality, not infection — bring a recent water test; it's the first thing a good fish vet will ask about. Fish medicine is specialised and few vets treat fish, so call ahead. Many aquarium-shop and OTC 'cures' are harmful or simply mask the real problem, so tell the vet exactly what (if anything) you’ve already added, and treat a sick fish in a separate hospital tank rather than dosing the whole display.
Then note which of the warning signs (above) you are seeing, when they started, and whether they are getting worse.
❓ Questions to ask
- Do you treat fish? If not, can you refer me to a vet who does?
- What are the likely causes — and could my water or setup be the cause?
- What is the treatment plan, the likely cost, and what should I watch for at home?
- How do I prevent this from happening again?