Species · Shrimp & snails
Cherry Shrimp
Neocaridina davidi
The best beginner dwarf shrimp — colourful, tireless algae-and-biofilm grazers that breed readily in stable water. Two rules: stability over chasing numbers, and absolutely no copper.
Difficulty: BeginnerShrimp / invert tank✓ Fact-checked care guide
Quick facts
| Adult size | Females to ~4 cm / 1.5 in; males ~2.5–3 cm / 1–1.25 in |
|---|---|
| Minimum tank | From a 2 US gal nano; ~10 US gal / ~40 L is ideal for a thriving colony |
| Temperature | 16–28 °C / 60–82 °F, optimal 22–24 °C / 72–76 °F |
| pH | 6.5–8.5 |
| Hardness | GH at least 6 °dGH (needed for shell/molting); KH at least 2 °dKH to buffer pH |
| Filtration & flow | Gentle, cycled filtration; a mature, stable tank matters more than exact numbers |
| Diet | Grazer — algae, biofilm and detritus, plus shrimp-specific foods with minerals/calcium for molting |
| Social | Colony animal — keep a group; they thrive and breed in numbers |
| Temperament | Completely peaceful |
| Lifespan | Around 1–2 years |
Overview
Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) are the friendliest possible introduction to keeping freshwater invertebrates: small, brightly coloured, endlessly busy, and — in the right water — prolific. A well-established colony is a joy to watch and doubles as a living cleanup crew.
They are hardy for shrimp, but "hardy" here means tolerant of a range of stable conditions, not tolerant of change. The two things that catch beginners out are sudden parameter swings and copper — get those right and Neocaridina almost keep themselves.
Water & tank
Aim for stable water in a broad, comfortable range: 22–24 °C / 72–76 °F is optimal (they tolerate 16–28 °C / 60–82 °F), pH 6.5–8.5, with GH of at least 6 °dGH and KH of at least 2 °dKH. The GH matters especially — shrimp need dissolved minerals to build their shells and molt successfully, so in soft water a remineraliser is important.
Stability beats perfection: shrimp cope far better with steady, slightly "off" numbers than with a parameter that swings around the ideal. Keep them in a mature, fully cycled, planted tank with gentle filtration — and put a pre-filter sponge on the intake so shrimplets don't get drawn in. A nano tank of a couple of gallons can work, but ~10 US gal / ~40 L gives a colony room to flourish.
The hard rule: no copper. Copper is toxic to shrimp and other invertebrates — check that medications, plant fertilisers, and any tap-water treatments are invertebrate-safe before they go anywhere near the tank.
Feeding
Cherry shrimp are constant grazers, scavenging algae, biofilm and decaying plant/animal matter — a mature, planted tank feeds them much of the time. Supplement with a little shrimp-specific food, and offer occasional blanched vegetables and a source of calcium/minerals to support molting.
Feed sparingly — tiny amounts they finish quickly. Overfeeding a shrimp tank fouls the water and is a common cause of losses.
Behaviour & tankmates
Utterly peaceful and safe with plants and with each other. In a shrimp-only or nano tank they breed readily — females carry ~20–30 eggs and the young are miniature adults that need no special rearing.
The catch is that almost anything bigger will eat baby shrimp (and some adults). For a growing colony, keep them alone or with only the smallest, most peaceful tankmates and heavy planting so shrimplets can hide.
What to expect
Given stable water, a small starter group becomes a colony surprisingly fast. Regular molting is normal — you'll find translucent cast shells (leave them; shrimp eat them back for minerals). A berried (egg-carrying) female fanning her eggs under her tail is a sign of a happy, settled tank.
Myths, kindly busted
“Chase the exact "perfect" parameters at all costs.”
Stability matters more than hitting an ideal number. Shrimp adapt to steady conditions; it is the swings that harm them.
“A tiny drop of copper won't matter.”
Copper is toxic to shrimp. Copper in medications, fertilisers, or tap-water additives can wipe out a colony — always use invertebrate-safe products.
“Shrimp are just a cleanup crew and need no food.”
They graze biofilm and algae, but a colony also needs supplementary shrimp food and a mineral/calcium source for healthy molting.
When to act
We triage, not diagnose — but these are worth a closer look (starting with a water test):
- Deaths shortly after a water change or a new addition to the tank — suspect a parameter swing or copper; recheck what went in and match parameters when topping up.
- Failed molts (a shrimp stuck half-out of its shell, or the "white ring of death") — usually a GH/mineral or sudden-change problem; check GH and stability.
- A colony that stops breeding or slowly dwindles — review temperature stability, GH/KH, feeding, and any copper source before adding more shrimp.
Sources & further reading
- Aquarium Co-Op — Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) care — Temperature 60–82 °F / 16–28 °C (optimal 72–76 °F / 22–24 °C); pH 6.5–8.5; GH at least 6 °; KH at least 2 °; from a 2-gal nano, 10-gal+ for a colony; females to ~1.5 in, males ~1–1.25 in; grazer + shrimp food with minerals for molting; ~20–30 eggs per clutch. Copper-toxicity to invertebrates is well-established aquarium husbandry.
Written & fact-checked by The Finfern Team against the sources above — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosis. If something looks wrong, test your water and, if it persists, contact a fish-savvy vet.
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