The honest cost
How much does a Severum cost to keep? — the severum itself is usually the cheapest part.
The honest answer: the severum itself is usually the cheapest part. Here's what it really costs — the upfront setup, the ongoing monthly costs, and where it's safe to save vs never cut corners. We don't quote prices (they vary by country, currency and month) — we show you what you're paying for and where the money actually goes.
💷 Upfront — the one-time setup
What you need before the severum comes home. The setup, not the fish, is the real cost of entry.
- The tank
- Sized for an adult (Footprint first: SeriouslyFish sets the floor at a 120 x 45 cm base (48 x 18 in), about 243 L / 64 US gal, for one fish. In practice most keepers go bigger: roughly 284 L / 75 US gal (a 4-foot tank) for a single severum, 379 L / 100 US gal for a bonded pair, and 750 L / 200 US gal or more for a group of six. Bigger is genuinely better here, because floor space and broken sightlines are how you manage a deep-bodied territorial cichlid, not a number printed on a bag.). This is the single biggest cost — and the number-one thing beginners under-buy. A bigger tank is more stable AND cheaper than replacing a small one you've outgrown.
- A filter
- A filter rated comfortably above the tank volume (Strong biological filtration sized for a messy, large-bodied fish (over-filter rather than under-filter), but keep the current gentle to moderate. As a slow-water Amazonian, a severum dislikes being blasted, so aim for well-oxygenated water with turnover you can baffle down, not a river.). Under-filtering causes most of the problems people blame on the fish — the bigger, right filter is the cheap insurance.
- A heater + thermostat
- This is a tropical fish (22.2-28.9 C (72-84 F); most keepers settle around 26-28 C (79-82 F).) — it needs a thermostatically-controlled heater holding a stable temperature, day and night. Coldwater species don't need one; this one does.
- Substrate, décor & plants
- The substrate, hides, and real or silk plants. This is where you CAN save — sand/plain gravel, DIY hardscape and hardy plants do the job as well as branded aquascaping kit.
- A water test kit + dechlorinator
- A liquid test kit (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH) and a water conditioner. These are essential, not optional — you cannot keep fish safely without testing your water and dechlorinating every top-up and water change.
- The fish itself
- Usually the SMALLEST line on this whole list. The price of the severum tells you almost nothing about the cost of keeping it well.
🔁 Ongoing — the part people forget
The costs that keep coming for the fish's whole life (Typically 7-10 years, and often longer with clean, stable water and enough space.).
- Food
- Its diet (Omnivore that leans herbivorous. A good-quality cichlid pellet is the staple, plus regular vegetable matter (blanched courgette/zucchini, peas, spinach, spirulina) and occasional meaty treats (bloodworm, chopped prawn/earthworm). They will also eat plants and small tankmates given the chance.). Modest per month, but constant for the fish's whole life — and this species can live Typically 7-10 years, and often longer with clean, stable water and enough space..
- Electricity
- The hidden monthly cost: the heater and the filter run 24/7. Over a year the power bill can quietly rival the food bill — and it scales with a bigger, correct tank.
- Consumables
- The recurring replacements: dechlorinator / water conditioner, test-kit refills, replacement filter media, and — if you keep live plants — root tabs or liquid ferts. Small, regular, easy to forget when you budget.
- Vet care
- Aquatic / fish vets are rare and pricier than a cat-or-dog vet, so keep an emergency mindset and a small fund. Reptiles and fish alike hide illness until it's advanced. Find a fish vet BEFORE you need one — start with the Severum vet-prep sheet below.
✅ Worth the money
- Water first. Target soft, warm, slightly acidic conditions: 22.2-28.9 C (72-84 F), pH 5.5-7.0, and 1-8 dGH. This is a South American softwater fish, so do NOT try to keep it in the hard, alkaline water Rift-lake cichlids want, the chemistry is the opposite end of the scale.
- Cycle the tank before the fish arrives. A severum is big and messy; it needs an established biological filter holding ammonia and nitrite at 0 ppm, with nitrate kept low by regular water changes. New, uncycled tanks are the number-one killer of large cichlids.
- Space and footprint matter more than raw litres. SeriouslyFish's floor is a 120 x 45 cm base (243 L / 64 US gal) for one fish; realistically plan on a 4-foot, 284 L / 75 US gal tank for a single, 379 L / 100 US gal for a pair, and 750 L / 200 US gal or more for a group of six. Length and floor area are what let a territorial cichlid hold a territory without cornering others.
- Aquascape to break lines of sight. Use smooth sand (they dig and sift), plus driftwood, rounded rocks and tall hardscape so no fish can see across the whole tank. Broken sightlines are the single best aggression-management tool for cichlids. Dim, tannin-stained "blackwater" light suits them and shows off colour.
- Overpower the filtration but tame the flow. Filter for a heavy bioload, yet keep the current gentle to moderate; this is a slow-water fish that resents being blasted. Do consistent weekly water changes to export the waste all that food produces.
These are this species' own sourced setup essentials from our severum care sheet — get these right.
🟡 Save your money
- All-in-one "starter kit" bundles that lock you into a small tank — the tank is usually the wrong size, so the "saving" costs you an upgrade.
- Decorative gimmicks — coloured gravel, plastic ornaments and novelty décor do nothing for the fish; plain substrate, wood, rock and plants are cheaper and better.
- Gimmick "cures", tonics and clarifiers — most mask a water problem instead of fixing it. A test kit and water changes are the real fix.
⛔ Never buy
- A fish BOWL or vase — no room, no filter, no heater. It is the number-one cause of avoidable fish death, not a starter home.
- A tank sold as a "complete setup" that is too small for a severum — you will pay twice when you have to upgrade.
- No dechlorinator — tap water contains chlorine/chloramine that kills fish and the beneficial bacteria your filter needs. This is never the place to save.
- An undersized filter to "match" a small tank — under-filtering is behind most water-quality problems.
Cheap, common, and harmful — true for every freshwater fish.
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How much does a severum cost to keep?
More than it costs to buy — the severum is usually the cheapest part. The real cost is the setup (the tank, a filter, a heater, substrate and décor, and a test kit plus dechlorinator), then the ongoing food, electricity, consumables and vet care. We don't quote a figure because prices vary a lot by country, currency and month — this page shows exactly what you're paying for and where the money goes, so you can price it up locally.
What are the ongoing monthly costs of a severum?
Food, electricity for the heater and filter that run 24/7, recurring consumables (dechlorinator, test-kit refills, filter media), and — the big variable — vet care: keep a small emergency fund, because fish vets are rare and pricier. This species can live Typically 7-10 years, and often longer with clean, stable water and enough space., so these small monthly costs add up over its life.
Why does the setup cost more than the severum itself?
Because you're not buying a fish — you're building its whole environment. A severum needs its tank, a cycled filter, stable tropical warmth, and clean, tested, dechlorinated water, and that equipment is where the money goes. The purchase price of the severum tells you almost nothing about the cost of keeping it properly.
Where can I save money on a severum — and where shouldn't I?
Safe to save: budget on décor and substrate, and buy a second-hand tank (glass lasts). Never cheap out on the tank SIZE, the filter, a dechlorinator, or a test kit — those four are where saving money costs the fish its health, and usually costs you more later.